QT's Ingredient Dictionary
Key Ingredients
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 and Dipeptide-2 are both synthetic peptides that have anti-inflammation, soothing, and hydrating properties. For our Cloud Eye Gels, these peptides help reduce fluid retention under the eyes. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 also has been proven to help fight against a process called glycation, which interrupts the production of collagen and elastin and helps keep the skin supple, firm, and smooth.
Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Oil and Extract are rich in Vitamin C and antioxidants, which aid in protecting skin from oxidative damages and environmental stressors from pollution and UV exposure. These ingredients also possess natural hydrating properties, helping to maintain moisture balance and enhance skin suppleness. Additionally, their anti-inflammatory effects can soothe redness and irritation, making them suitable for sensitive skin types.
Anti-acne; Soothing; Buffering
Azelaic Acid is a popular ingredient for a good reason! It helps treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It helps to kill the bacteria that cause acne and reduces the production of keratin, a protein that can block pores and lead to acne. Not only does it improve skin texture and prevent future breakouts, it also inhibits the production of melanin, which can help to fade dark spots and even out skin tone. It is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin. As with any active skincare ingredient, it's important to introduce Azelaic Acid gradually into your skincare routine and monitor how your skin responds.
Soothing; Moisturizer/​humectant
Beta Glucan is an effective humectant, meaning it helps the skin retain moisture. This leads to improved hydration, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and give the skin a plump, smooth look. It also has soothing and even wound-healing properties, making it beneficial for reducing redness and irritation - which is particularly good for sensitive or reactive skin types. It also provides antioxidant protection, which helps to shield the skin from damage caused by free radicals. This protection can help prevent signs of aging, maintain a healthy skin complexion, and strengthen the skin's barrier function.
Skin-identical ingredient; Moisturizer/​humectant
Glycerin is a humectant produced from naturally found triglycerides from plant and animal sources. Ours is always from plant sources! Humectants are hygroscopic molecules meaning that they increase the water content on the stratum corneum, the most outer layer of the skin, from the deeper layers of the skin and from the outside environment. Through this process, it boosts water absorption and retention by forming hydrogen bonds with water molecules. Its moisturizing and hydrating abilities make glycerin a superstar ingredient for skincare.Â
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a stable and effective form of vitamin C and a potent antioxidant. It has been shown to protect skin from oxidative damages and environmental stressors from pollution and UV exposure. These oxidative damages come from compounds called free radicals. Because they contain unpaired electrons and are therefore unstable, it becomes reactive and seeks electrons from other skin components, leaving them damaged. Antioxidants like Vitamin C and E help neutralize free radicals by donating their electrons therefore stopping this process. No free radicals = brighter, firmer, and even-looking skin.
Cell-communicating; Skin-brightening; Anti-acne; Moisturizer/​humectant
So good we used it twice. Vitamin B3, also known as Niacinamide or Nicotinamide, is a superstar ingredient used for a variety of skincare concerns. For our Cloud Eye Gels, we love it for its skin barrier strengthening abilities. It promotes the production of ceramides, free fatty acids, cholesterol - the vital components of the skin barrier necessary for healthy, hydrated skin. To be exact, they prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is the process in which water diffuses and evaporates from our skin cells into the atmosphere. Niacinamide also visibly reduces the visible signs of aging and improves skin elasticity by boosting collagen and other essential skin protein production. When combined with Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) and Vitamin E, this powerhouse trio addresses a plethora of skincare concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, skin suppleness, dullness, and uneven skin tone. For our Redew Kiwi Glow Serum, we love it for all the reasons listed above plus its ability to regulate oil production, fade hyperpigmentation, and reduce inflammation. Excess oil can lead to acne, so by controlling oil production, niacinamide can reduce the occurrence of breakouts. By inhibiting the transfer of pigment within the skin, it can also help fade dark spots and even out skin tone over time. Phew! Now that's why it's called a superstar ingredient.
Exfoliant; Buffering; Chelating; Moisturizer/​humectant; Antimicrobial/​antibacterial
PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) are known for their gentle exfoliating properties. They work on the surface of the skin to slough away dead skin cells, leading to smoother, brighter skin without the irritation often associated with stronger acids like BHAs and highly concentrated AHAs. This is because PHAs have larger molecular structures compared to other hydroxy acids, which allows them to penetrate the skin more slowly and less deeply, reducing the risk of irritation. This structure also helps them function as humectants, drawing moisture into the skin and helping to keep it hydrated and oh-so glowy. Not only this but regular use of PHAs can lead to an improvement in skin texture and tone. They can help in reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and minor discolorations over time while supporting healthy skin barrier function. We made sure our PHA/AHA/LHA Acid Blend, like all of our formulations, are sensitive skin friendly.Â
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You also might notice, our Redew Kiwi Glow Serum has Capryloyl Salicylic Acid. This ingredient is also known as Lipohydroxy Acid (LHA) and is beneficial for the skin due to its unique properties as a derivative of Salicylic Acid. Like Salicylic Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid can penetrate into pores and help to clear out excess sebum and debris, which makes it effective in managing acne and preventing blemishes. Now, I know what you're thinking...isn't Salicylic Acid very irritating to some? Like PHAs, LHAs also have a larger molecular size, and along with its fatty acid structure, it's been shown to penetrate the skin slower than Salicylic Acid. In vitro studies have shown Salicylic Acid has been found to penetrate up to 58% deeper into the skin layers. In contrast, LHAs primarily remain in the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the skin, making it far less irritating.
Skin-identical ingredient; Moisturizer/​humectant
Sodium hyaluronate, the salt form of hyaluronic acid, is a hygroscopic molecule that can bind over 1000 times its weight in water. Our sodium hyaluronate blend is based upon hydrated spheres that can penetrate the upper layers of the skin and absorb hydration deep into the skin. This results in smoothing out of fine lines and increasing elastic skin surface while providing long lasting hydration.
Skin-identical ingredient; Emollient
Highly moisturizing and skin-penetrating squalane oil, derived from plant or animal sources, is rich in skin-replenishing fatty acids and antioxidants. Again, QT is always cruelty and vegan, so we always opt for the plant-sourced ingredients. It is non-irritating, non-allergenic, non-comedogenic (won’t clog your pores), and is incredibly similar in composition to your skin’s natural sebum. To prevent skin dehydration, sebum is released at the skin’s surface and creates a waterproof layer. Along with Grape Seed Oil, this duo forms an impermeable barrier over the skin and prevents TEWL - locking in moisture needed for healthy barrier function. Because of this process, it provides long lasting moisture to the skin, making it an ideal ingredient for many uses. Often times, occlusive ingredients like vegetable oils are combined with humectant ingredients like glycerin to provide immediate and long lasting hydration and moisturization (hydration = attracting water, moisturization = locking in it). Occlusive ingredients tend to have a heavy feeling; however, we chose lightweight but highly moisturizing oils for a non-greasy, conditioned skin feel.
Tocopherol, also known as vitamin E, is a fat-soluble antioxidant naturally occuring in the skin. For skincare products, it is usually derived from wheat germ or vegetable oils. Like vitamin C, it helps defend the skin against free radicals and environmental factors. When combined with other antioxidants like vitamin C, it creates a synergistic effect - meaning they can enhance each other's benefits to the skin.Â
What's Your Function?
Ingredients beneficial for acne treatment often possess antibacterial and/or anti-inflammatory properties.
Ingredients that prevent and combat acne-causing bacteria and can sometimes act as "preservative booster," helping to extend the shelf life and maintains the product's safety and effectiveness.
Ingredients that protect the skin by neutralizing harmful free radicals from environmental stressors, thereby preventing premature aging and maintaining skin health. They also aid in reducing inflammation, enhancing skin repair, and promoting a more even skin tone.
Helper ingredients that maintain the product's pH at a level that is safe and effective for the skin, ensuring optimal performance of the product and minimizing irritation. They also help to stabilize the formulation, preventing changes in pH that could occur due to exposure to air or other ingredients.
Ingredients that help to instruct skin cells to behave more like healthy, younger cells, improving skin function and appearance. They aid in repairing damage, reducing signs of aging, and enhancing the skin's natural ability to renew and maintain itself.
Helper ingredients in skincare bind to metal ions, which are often present in water and cosmetic formulations, to prevent these ions from negatively affecting the stability and efficacy of the product.
Ingredients that provide hydration and moisture to the skin, softening and soothing it to improve texture and appearance. They also help to strengthen the skin's barrier, protecting it from environmental stressors and preventing moisture loss.
Ingredients that attract moisture from the environment and the deeper layers of the skin to the outermost layer, providing essential hydration. This action helps to maintain skin's suppleness, elasticity, and overall health by preventing dryness and dehydration.
Ingredients that target hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, working to reduce the appearance of dark spots and discoloration for a more even complexion. They also enhance overall skin radiance and luminosity by inhibiting melanin production and promoting cell turnover.
Skin-identical ingredients in skincare mimic the natural components found in the skin, such as lipids, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid, helping to repair and maintain the skin's natural barrier. Their use enhances skin hydration, resilience, and protection against environmental damage, while also reducing signs of aging and sensitivity.
Ingredients that calm and reduce skin irritation, redness, and inflammation, making them ideal for sensitive and reactive skin types. They also help in repairing and strengthening the skin's natural barrier, enhancing its ability to protect against irritants and environmental stressors.